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Whole Home Renovation Gut renovations and multi-room projects on one schedule

The moment to fix what room-by-room can never reach: the pipe, the wiring, the panel, and the floor plan itself.

Licensed & insured · Free in-home consultation · Fixed written pricing

1989
Building here since
6
Remodeling services
12
Communities served
Free
In-home consultation
The service

Renovating an entire house at once

There is a point where remodeling one room at a time stops making sense. Usually it arrives when the third contractor tells you the panel cannot take another circuit, or when you realize the plumbing behind the wall you just tiled is the same galvanized pipe as everywhere else in the house.

A whole home renovation is the moment to fix what a room-by-room approach can never reach. Repiping, rewiring, a panel that can carry a modern house, ducting that actually reaches the back bedroom, insulation in walls that never had any, and a floor plan that reflects how people live now rather than how they lived in 1955. None of that is visible when it is finished. All of it is the difference between a house that has been renovated and a house that has been redecorated.

It is also cheaper per room. Every trade comes through the house once instead of six separate times, materials are ordered in one pass, and a single permit covers scope that would otherwise be filed and inspected repeatedly. The premium you pay for phasing a renovation over five years is larger than most homeowners expect.

The tradeoff is disruption. A genuine gut renovation is not a project you live through. We are direct with you about that at the consultation, because discovering it in month two is a bad way to find out.

What we find in Valley houses

Galvanized supply lines narrowed by decades of scale. Cast iron drains at the end of their service life. Panels sized for a house with one television. Ducting added in the 1970s that was never balanced. Insulation that stops at the first stud bay. Prior additions built without permits, sometimes competently and sometimes not. None of it is unusual for the age of this housing stock, and all of it is dramatically cheaper to address while the walls are open.

Preserving what is worth preserving

Not everything old should go. Original hardwood, plaster, steel casement windows, arched openings, and period casing are hard to reproduce and expensive to fake. We will tell you which details are worth keeping and which are simply old.

One schedule, one point of contact

A renovation this size has hundreds of handoffs. Every one of them is ours to manage, not yours.

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Scope

What a full renovation covers

Scope is set project by project. These are the six areas a whole home renovation usually touches.

Structure & framing

Wall removal, beams, lateral bracing, and foundation work identified by an engineer.

Plumbing & repiping

Supply and drain lines replaced throughout while the walls are open, not patched in sections.

Electrical & panel

Rewiring, a panel sized for the finished house, and circuits where a modern household needs them.

HVAC & envelope

System replacement, duct runs that reach every room, insulation, and windows.

Kitchens & bathrooms

The dense, expensive rooms, built in sequence with everything else rather than around it.

Flooring & finishes

Continuous flooring across the plan, trim, doors, paint, and the punch list.

How it works

The renovation, phase by phase

Seven phases. The house gets worse before it gets better, and the middle of the project always looks alarming even when everything is on schedule.

Week 1

Walkthrough and assessment

We go through the whole house, open the panel, look at the plumbing, check the attic and the crawlspace or slab, and talk through how you want to live in it. This is a longer visit than a single-room consultation for good reason.

4–8 weeks

Design, engineering, and selections

Floor plan, structural engineering where walls or loads change, energy compliance, and material selections across every room. Selections get made now because a renovation this size cannot absorb decisions made mid-build.

Varies by jurisdiction

Plan check and permit

Submittal, corrections, resubmittal, permit. Existing unpermitted work gets addressed as part of this.

1–2 weeks

Demolition

Selective or full demolition depending on scope. Salvage anything worth keeping first. This is the phase where the house tells you what it has been hiding.

4–8 weeks

Structural, rough-in, and systems

Framing changes, beams, repipe, rewire, HVAC, and inspections. The most valuable phase of the project and the one with the least to show for it at the end of each day.

6–12 weeks

Insulation, drywall, and finishes

Insulation, drywall, then kitchen, bathrooms, flooring, doors, trim, and paint working through the house in sequence.

Final

Final inspections and walkthrough

Sign-off, then a full walkthrough room by room. The punch list on a project this size is long by definition, and it gets cleared before final payment.

Logistics

Phasing, and where you live meanwhile

This is the part of a whole home renovation that gets decided last and should be decided first. It changes the schedule, the cost, and whether the experience is tolerable.

Full gut, house vacant

The fastest and cheapest path per square foot. Trades work in parallel instead of tiptoeing around occupied rooms, demolition happens all at once, and there is no daily setup and breakdown to protect a living area. The cost is that you are paying a mortgage and a rent at the same time for the duration, which is a real number and belongs in your budget even though it never appears on our quote.

Phased by zone, house occupied

We seal off a section of the house, complete it, then move to the next. This works when there is a clear division in the floor plan, when at least one bathroom and some form of kitchen can stay in service, and when nobody in the household is particularly sensitive to dust and noise. It takes longer and costs more, because every zone means a fresh round of containment, protection, and mobilization.

Systems first, finishes later

A middle path that suits people who cannot move out and cannot afford everything at once. Repipe, rewire, upgrade the panel, and address structure while the walls are open, then close up and finish rooms over time as budget allows. It is not glamorous and there is a stretch where the house looks unfinished, but it puts the money in the right place first. The mistake we see most often is the reverse: beautiful finishes installed over the same failing systems, which have to be torn out within a decade.

The one sequencing rule

Never install a finish over a system you intend to replace later. New tile over old galvanized pipe, or new cabinets over a panel you know is undersized, is money you will pay twice. If the budget will not stretch to both, do the system and wait on the finish.

Budget

What drives the cost

On a whole home renovation the invisible scope is frequently larger than the visible scope, and it is what separates a real quote from a low one.

  • How much structure changes. Removing walls, adding beams, and correcting lateral bracing is engineering plus labor plus permit time.
  • Whether you repipe and rewire. The single most consequential decision in the project and the easiest one to cut from a quote to make it look cheaper.
  • Number of kitchens and bathrooms. These rooms carry the densest cost per square foot in any house.
  • Foundation and soil. Settlement, cracking, drainage, and hillside conditions all get addressed here or not at all.
  • Windows and envelope. Replacing windows throughout is a large line and it changes both comfort and energy compliance.
  • Finish level. The most visible variable and often not the largest one.
  • Living arrangements. If you move out, that is a real cost of the project even though it never appears on our quote. Budget for it.
Plan for the unknown

Hold 10 to 15 percent in reserve, and on a pre-1960 house consider the upper end. A full renovation opens every wall, which means it finds every prior repair, every shortcut, and every leak that has been quietly working for thirty years.

We price the work after design is settled, in writing, with allowances itemized by room. A whole-house number quoted before drawings exist is not a price.

Answers

Whole home renovation questions

Should I renovate room by room or all at once?
All at once is cheaper per room and faster overall, because the trades come through the house one time instead of six. Room by room spreads the cost over years and lets you stay in the house, but you pay a mobilization premium every single time and you live with construction for far longer. The right answer usually comes down to whether you can move out for the duration.
Do I need to move out?
For a true gut renovation, yes, and you should budget for it. When the house has no working kitchen, no functioning bathrooms, and open walls, living there is neither pleasant nor safe. For a phased renovation we can seal off zones and keep part of the house livable. We tell you which situation yours is before you sign anything.
How long does a whole home renovation take?
Longer than the sum of its rooms, because structural, electrical, and plumbing work happens across the whole house before any room gets finished. Design and permitting come first and run on their own clock. You get a dated construction schedule with phase milestones once permits are issued.
Can you update the electrical and plumbing throughout?
Yes, and in a house of this age it is usually the most valuable thing in the entire project even though none of it is visible when you are done. Repiping, rewiring, and a panel upgrade are far cheaper while the walls are already open than they will ever be again.
What about foundation and structural issues?
A full renovation is the right moment to address them, because access will never be better. Older Valley homes may have foundation cracking, settlement, inadequate lateral bracing, or prior repairs of unknown quality. We bring in a structural engineer when the walkthrough suggests it rather than guessing.
Will you keep the character of the house?
If you want it kept, yes. Original casing profiles, arched openings, steel windows, plaster texture, and hardwood can all be preserved or matched. Stripping every period detail out of a 1930s house to make it look like a builder spec home is a choice, and it is usually the wrong one for resale as well as for living in it.
Do you handle permits for a project this size?
Yes. A whole home renovation typically involves structural, plumbing, electrical, and mechanical scope, which means plans, engineering, energy compliance, and a long sequence of inspections. We prepare and file everything and manage plan check corrections.
How do you keep a project this long on schedule?
By ordering long-lead materials at the start rather than when each room comes up, by sequencing trades so nobody is waiting on anyone, and by giving you one point of contact who knows the whole job. Big renovations do not usually slip because of one large problem. They slip from twenty small handoffs that nobody owned.
Where we work

Proudly serving these areas

We renovate homes throughout Encino and the surrounding San Fernando Valley and Westside communities. Tap your city for local housing stock and permitting.

Not on the list? Call (818) 881-8333 — we travel outside our core area for the right project.

Our other services

Ready to take on the whole house?

We will walk every room, look at the systems behind the walls, and tell you honestly what is worth doing and in what order. No charge, no obligation.